Planes has been a tough one for me. I'm leaning towards a No 5 to get me started but it won't be second hand. I know there's the potential cost savings with it but I feel like I need to experience setting up and using a plane before I experiment restoring something. Which I will have a go at eventually...
I'm most likely going to get a Verum plane of whichever size I'll eventually use...
Sharpening... Another tough one. I'm yet to make a decision on that one. There will be a post about it when I do! The same goes for clamps actually (minus the confusion) so stay tuned!
It's certainly an interesting journey building a new toolkit from scratch.
I appreciate all the advice here and you can rest assured I always take it in and factor it I to my decisions.
Once again thanks and welcome to The Woodworking Shed! 🪚
I understand the anxiety over restoring old planes, it's another barrier to entry, only spending time and gaining knowledge instead of spending money. All of those things are precious, lol. I would like to reiterate on the plane side of things; the bench planes are the sexiest ones, but their functions do very much overlap. I would highly recommend getting 1 bench plane (I think your #5 pick is ideal) and then get another specialized joinery plane. I'd recommend a router plane, because they're incredibly useful, but a low angle block plane or low angle block rabbet plane will also be very good. If I could only have 3 planes, I'd absolutely keep a #5, router plane, and low angle block in my shop.
I'll definitely be getting a block plane and speciality planes at some point. The no 5 is just the beginning. It'll build my workbench when I get to it.
I'm trying to let my projects dictate my toolbox to keep costs down. It's very easy to rush off and buy everything otherwise!
Chris Schwarz's "Anarchist's Tool Chest" might be a good book for you at this stage.
As for hammers; I own a few of them (because I can't help myself) but I very seldom use one. Woodworking chisels are better struck with a mallet; either the square carpenter's mallet or the round carver's mallet. I prefer the latter. https://walteregon.substack.com/p/joiners-mallets-aac
Oh, and while I'm here doling out unsolicited advice: You mentioned in a previous post about buying planes that you wanted a no.4 and a no.5. Now ... you can never have enough planes (in fact, he who has the most when he dies, wins) but those two sizes are quite similar in many respects, so perhaps not worth the outlay?
If you really want two planes I would go for a no. 4 (for smoothing) and a no. 6 for scrubbing/jackplaning, jointing and general flattening.
Or you could begin with a just a no. 5 but buy two extra blades. Then you could set up one blade with a pronounced camber for hoggin' off, the next with only a slight camber for try-planing/flattening, and the last one un-cambered for smoothing.
Thank you. I've downloaded that book, I didn't expect it to be free! I'll be sure to go through it.
I held a square mallet in a shop and my first thought was clunky which is why I've headed towards the nylon face. I use them at work (not for woodworking...) so it's a familiar face (Thor).
I hadn't given much thought to the round mallet, I haven't seen much about them so I will have another look.
Of your many round mallets what's your go-to weight?
I don't know its weight but I prefer the lightest one from Wood Is Good for most furniture-sized work. I pull out the heavy guns for timber-framing and such.
For a while you will want more and more tools. Then once you have a lot, particularly the more you read, you will find that you can get by with fewer tools.
Maybe get fewer better tools and have the work flow well designed in your shop for your projects.
Even if you have a mild tool acquisition addiction. And you will ask then ‘Do I need both firmer chisels and paring chisels?’ Do I need a 9 1/2 and a 60 1/2 block plane? Is it a lot to keep sharp? Do I have enough room to organize all these? Or should I concentrate and increase my skills with a smaller set of tools.
Tool buying addictions are very real. I'm really trying to resist getting into this position as much as possible. I simply don't have the space to store masses of tools without it impacting my usable space for woodworking. (Much like your own situation, but it will happen to me much quicker!)
Just as you say, the more I learn, the more I will realise which tools I really need. For now I'm trying to keep things as basic as possible and try to learn how to get around problems with the tools I have rather than just jumping to the single-use tool that will easily do it for you.
The only other tool of significance I would recommend that I didn't see touched on by the other commentors is a good quality framing square, especially when building a bench with larger, often less regular, timbers. The Shinwa that Lee Valley sells is great. There's also the Chappell Square which is extraordinary but because he has designed it around a base ten decimal system it is marked in twentieth's, something I didn't realize until I received it. The one nice thing though is that he offers it in a smaller 12x18 size that is much more useful that the usual 8x12 half-size available at most home centers. Don't assume that a new square from any of those home centers is either square or accurately dimensioned. Expect to pick through the lot of them with a trusted square and rule to ensure you get a reliable tool. There are also the Japanese framing squares.........I'll stop now
The ability of it to span surface discrepancies/defects that aren't significantly obvious but that throw off a combo square when working a line around a workpiece. This is obviously more of an issue on larger timber but is still relevant on smaller work pieces particularly when they've been all hand dressed. I hope that helps, Darren
Hey Daniel, love the article and congrats on what will be a fun journey! Sorry in advance for the thesis to follow, but you're learning a valuable lesson: don't ask a woodworker for advice unless you have an hour. Especially about tools.
First, don't get a power saw for cross cutting boards to length, hand saws will do that fine. I would recommend a jigsaw, though, in case you need to rip boards to rough width; that is WAY harder with a hand saw, both physically and as a matter of skill. If you're using rough cut lumber, avoid a circular saw; the jig saw will be much safer. Plus, curves, and it will certainly cross cut if you want it to. Wen makes one for $30 that works fine, but go cordless if you can afford it.
For hand saws, medium quality Japanese style saws are very inexpensive and work great, compared to western saws. Look at Gyokucho, for a start: get a Dozuki and a Ryoba and you're covered for under $100. Be gentle with them, and they'll be awesome.
Chisels: either buy a set of 4 of Stanley Sweethearts/Marple Blue Chips/Narex, or buy 2 good chisels. Something in the 1/4" or 3/8" (6-9mm) size, and then something between 1" and 1.5" (24-38mm). I'd go the second route. If you're ever in doubt pretty much everything that Lee Valley/Veritas and Lie Nielsen make is always, at worst, very good.
Planes: Get a used No. 4 or 5 (I'd go 5), and a new Hock or Veritas PMV-11 blade AND chipbreaker to go with it. Cheapest route to a really great bench plane, should be a little over $100 all in. I'd really recommend at least one other plane as well. Personally, I'd go with a router plane (Veritas Medium) because it's incredibly useful for joinery. If not, a low angle block plane for cleaning up end grain.
Sharpening and measuring: do not try and cut corners here, spend on a few good items. The money spent to eliminate uncertainty in quality is well, well worth it.
Sharpening: if you can sharpen indoors, get 2k and 8k grit Shapton Kuromaku stones, and a diamond plate to flatten them: coarse or extra coarse work, get something on sale from DMT or Trend or a reputable manufacturer. If you're gonna be outside: coarse and fine diamond stones, and a strop with honing compound for me.
Measuring: I think you're on the right track. I'd get a PEC blemished/ factory-second combination square if available, Starrett combination square if not. 12" models can take a protractor head and center finder, which are handy. The 6" size is best for woodworking, though. I'd get that and a bevel gauge, personally. I like the old Stanley No. 25 with the single wing lock nut; they're about $20 on ebay.
I'd highly recommend also getting a decent quality machinist square (Kinex, Lee Valley/Veritas) and straight edge (Lee Valley/Veritas 18-36" aluminum) for relatively cheap, If you can afford them. Keep them inside, somewhere they won't get knocked or dropped, and use them only to VERIFY the accuracy of your daily users. That way you can get less expensive stuff to use on a daily basis and/or not worry about inaccuracy, dropping it, or stepping on your daily user. Even make your own straight edges and squares, and verify them. They're pretty cheap, and can save a lot of hemming and hawing, and potentially money.
Worth mentioning: a good drill and screwdriver are irreplaceable. If you don't have them already, get one of each. I'd recommend them over half of the tools mentioned above. Wera makes the best ratcheting combo screwdriver I've ever used.
Lastly, DO NOT FORGET ABOUT CLAMPS, lol. You can never have too many, and they cost money. Pipe clamps will probably be the cheapest and most effective way to start out; look for them used for $10 or so per clamp WITH pipe.
Best of luck, and apologies again for the dissertation.
If needed, substitute Axminster for Lee Valley, on your side of the pond, I think. Also, I understand about the used plane fear, and think you have a solid choice lined up.
Thanks! I'll check out lee valley.I have replied to your other comment too but I'm not sure it's linked it properly and posted it as a normal comment...
Hi, Daniel. I am guilty of accumulating a wide assortment of planes. I started with a couple of old (circa late 1940s) Stanley planes (#3 and #4) that I inherited from my father. While long neglected, they are cleaned up and restored now. He used them more for carpentry-grade projects arount the house. I also inherited a spokeshave and a block plane by Stanley, which are inferior to the bench planes. Newer Stanley planes are not very good.
To build my workbench, I needed more, so I added a low-angle bevel-up jack plane (#6 1/2 ?) and a jointer plane, both Veritas. I can swap blades between them if the wood grain demands a different bevel. Veritas has an annual seconds sales, where you can save a little money on quality tools, but you have to be dedicated and prepared to snatch what you want quickly, if they have a seconds quality available (cosmetic, but fully functional).
With those in hand, I converted the Stanley #3 to a scrub plane for fast material removal.
You will likely want a block plane, for endgrain trimming and other fine adjustments. I got a better one that I love. I also added: two curved spokeshaves - one concave and one curved sole, a medium shoulder plane, a router plane and a combination plane.
I think you will want three to start - #3 or #4 for smoothing, something else for more serious surfacing, and a block plane. You will know when your work gets to a point where you "need" to add more planes. Everybody has their favorite brands, and I mostly settled on Veritas. Not cheap, but satisfying. Others will say Lie-Nielsen is the best, and there are many more. If you want to scour flea markets for vintage tools, do your research and be prepared to spend a lot of effort on cleaning, truing, flatteng and sharpening. Just don't go for cheap without research - a few higher quality tools will sustain your love of woodworking but a larger set of crappy tools will sour your outlook.
I won't even get into chisels - I have some but I find the choices daunting. Maybe try one size of a maker and style that you think you'll like, and if it's good, expand to other sizes. If not, try again with a different style and/or maker. It also depends a lot on what you're using them for.
I feel like planes are a love hate relationship right now. I want several. I can afford 1 maybe 2 right now.
I'm forced to start small so I will likely get a no 5 to get me going. Will have a lot of shavings to make building my workbench...
I'll probably follow that with a smoother and a block plane. I'd love to have a jointercin future too.
I'm very averse to restored planes. It's too much risk for me. I'd much rather buy new and learn how to set it up. I feel that older planes are for those with experience.
If I knew a woodworker who could help and perhaps do the restoration perhaps it would be different!
I'm going to buy Verum planes from the woodworkers workshop. They are curated by Peter Sefton so I'm hoping they are good quality mid range planes. The reviews suggest as much!
Hi Rich!
Thanks for taking the time to write such a lengthy response. It's appreciated!
I'm sorry it's taken a little while to come back to you but I wanted to make sure I had the time to respond to you properly.
I've actually already chosen my saw and chisels you can see them in the post below. You'll be pleased to know Narex made the cut 😊
https://thewoodworkingshed.substack.com/p/first-tools-acquired-sawing-chiseling?r=g6si0
Planes has been a tough one for me. I'm leaning towards a No 5 to get me started but it won't be second hand. I know there's the potential cost savings with it but I feel like I need to experience setting up and using a plane before I experiment restoring something. Which I will have a go at eventually...
I'm most likely going to get a Verum plane of whichever size I'll eventually use...
Sharpening... Another tough one. I'm yet to make a decision on that one. There will be a post about it when I do! The same goes for clamps actually (minus the confusion) so stay tuned!
It's certainly an interesting journey building a new toolkit from scratch.
I appreciate all the advice here and you can rest assured I always take it in and factor it I to my decisions.
Once again thanks and welcome to The Woodworking Shed! 🪚
I understand the anxiety over restoring old planes, it's another barrier to entry, only spending time and gaining knowledge instead of spending money. All of those things are precious, lol. I would like to reiterate on the plane side of things; the bench planes are the sexiest ones, but their functions do very much overlap. I would highly recommend getting 1 bench plane (I think your #5 pick is ideal) and then get another specialized joinery plane. I'd recommend a router plane, because they're incredibly useful, but a low angle block plane or low angle block rabbet plane will also be very good. If I could only have 3 planes, I'd absolutely keep a #5, router plane, and low angle block in my shop.
Thank you!
I'll definitely be getting a block plane and speciality planes at some point. The no 5 is just the beginning. It'll build my workbench when I get to it.
I'm trying to let my projects dictate my toolbox to keep costs down. It's very easy to rush off and buy everything otherwise!
I want to stick to the two plane route. Ideally I'd get 3 but funds...
Would a no. 3 be a better partner to a no. 5 in that case? 4 & 6 may be a good shout too.
Food for thought. I haven't bought them yet so I'll do some more reading anyway.
Thank you for all your feedback I do really appreciate you taking the time.
Chris Schwarz's "Anarchist's Tool Chest" might be a good book for you at this stage.
As for hammers; I own a few of them (because I can't help myself) but I very seldom use one. Woodworking chisels are better struck with a mallet; either the square carpenter's mallet or the round carver's mallet. I prefer the latter. https://walteregon.substack.com/p/joiners-mallets-aac
Oh, and while I'm here doling out unsolicited advice: You mentioned in a previous post about buying planes that you wanted a no.4 and a no.5. Now ... you can never have enough planes (in fact, he who has the most when he dies, wins) but those two sizes are quite similar in many respects, so perhaps not worth the outlay?
If you really want two planes I would go for a no. 4 (for smoothing) and a no. 6 for scrubbing/jackplaning, jointing and general flattening.
Or you could begin with a just a no. 5 but buy two extra blades. Then you could set up one blade with a pronounced camber for hoggin' off, the next with only a slight camber for try-planing/flattening, and the last one un-cambered for smoothing.
Just a thought!
Thank you. I've downloaded that book, I didn't expect it to be free! I'll be sure to go through it.
I held a square mallet in a shop and my first thought was clunky which is why I've headed towards the nylon face. I use them at work (not for woodworking...) so it's a familiar face (Thor).
I hadn't given much thought to the round mallet, I haven't seen much about them so I will have another look.
Of your many round mallets what's your go-to weight?
I don't know its weight but I prefer the lightest one from Wood Is Good for most furniture-sized work. I pull out the heavy guns for timber-framing and such.
https://woodisgoodco.com/mallets/
The green plastic makes it extremely durable, and reduces noise, plus it makes the malllet 'bounce', which I very much prefer.
For a while you will want more and more tools. Then once you have a lot, particularly the more you read, you will find that you can get by with fewer tools.
Maybe get fewer better tools and have the work flow well designed in your shop for your projects.
Even if you have a mild tool acquisition addiction. And you will ask then ‘Do I need both firmer chisels and paring chisels?’ Do I need a 9 1/2 and a 60 1/2 block plane? Is it a lot to keep sharp? Do I have enough room to organize all these? Or should I concentrate and increase my skills with a smaller set of tools.
I do have an awesome idea to help with tool storage, but I'm keeping it under my hat for now...!
Tool buying addictions are very real. I'm really trying to resist getting into this position as much as possible. I simply don't have the space to store masses of tools without it impacting my usable space for woodworking. (Much like your own situation, but it will happen to me much quicker!)
Just as you say, the more I learn, the more I will realise which tools I really need. For now I'm trying to keep things as basic as possible and try to learn how to get around problems with the tools I have rather than just jumping to the single-use tool that will easily do it for you.
The only other tool of significance I would recommend that I didn't see touched on by the other commentors is a good quality framing square, especially when building a bench with larger, often less regular, timbers. The Shinwa that Lee Valley sells is great. There's also the Chappell Square which is extraordinary but because he has designed it around a base ten decimal system it is marked in twentieth's, something I didn't realize until I received it. The one nice thing though is that he offers it in a smaller 12x18 size that is much more useful that the usual 8x12 half-size available at most home centers. Don't assume that a new square from any of those home centers is either square or accurately dimensioned. Expect to pick through the lot of them with a trusted square and rule to ensure you get a reliable tool. There are also the Japanese framing squares.........I'll stop now
Hi Darren thanks for your comment!
What makes a framing square stand out over just a combination square and perhaps winding sticks?
The ability of it to span surface discrepancies/defects that aren't significantly obvious but that throw off a combo square when working a line around a workpiece. This is obviously more of an issue on larger timber but is still relevant on smaller work pieces particularly when they've been all hand dressed. I hope that helps, Darren
Hey Daniel, love the article and congrats on what will be a fun journey! Sorry in advance for the thesis to follow, but you're learning a valuable lesson: don't ask a woodworker for advice unless you have an hour. Especially about tools.
First, don't get a power saw for cross cutting boards to length, hand saws will do that fine. I would recommend a jigsaw, though, in case you need to rip boards to rough width; that is WAY harder with a hand saw, both physically and as a matter of skill. If you're using rough cut lumber, avoid a circular saw; the jig saw will be much safer. Plus, curves, and it will certainly cross cut if you want it to. Wen makes one for $30 that works fine, but go cordless if you can afford it.
For hand saws, medium quality Japanese style saws are very inexpensive and work great, compared to western saws. Look at Gyokucho, for a start: get a Dozuki and a Ryoba and you're covered for under $100. Be gentle with them, and they'll be awesome.
Chisels: either buy a set of 4 of Stanley Sweethearts/Marple Blue Chips/Narex, or buy 2 good chisels. Something in the 1/4" or 3/8" (6-9mm) size, and then something between 1" and 1.5" (24-38mm). I'd go the second route. If you're ever in doubt pretty much everything that Lee Valley/Veritas and Lie Nielsen make is always, at worst, very good.
Planes: Get a used No. 4 or 5 (I'd go 5), and a new Hock or Veritas PMV-11 blade AND chipbreaker to go with it. Cheapest route to a really great bench plane, should be a little over $100 all in. I'd really recommend at least one other plane as well. Personally, I'd go with a router plane (Veritas Medium) because it's incredibly useful for joinery. If not, a low angle block plane for cleaning up end grain.
Sharpening and measuring: do not try and cut corners here, spend on a few good items. The money spent to eliminate uncertainty in quality is well, well worth it.
Sharpening: if you can sharpen indoors, get 2k and 8k grit Shapton Kuromaku stones, and a diamond plate to flatten them: coarse or extra coarse work, get something on sale from DMT or Trend or a reputable manufacturer. If you're gonna be outside: coarse and fine diamond stones, and a strop with honing compound for me.
Measuring: I think you're on the right track. I'd get a PEC blemished/ factory-second combination square if available, Starrett combination square if not. 12" models can take a protractor head and center finder, which are handy. The 6" size is best for woodworking, though. I'd get that and a bevel gauge, personally. I like the old Stanley No. 25 with the single wing lock nut; they're about $20 on ebay.
I'd highly recommend also getting a decent quality machinist square (Kinex, Lee Valley/Veritas) and straight edge (Lee Valley/Veritas 18-36" aluminum) for relatively cheap, If you can afford them. Keep them inside, somewhere they won't get knocked or dropped, and use them only to VERIFY the accuracy of your daily users. That way you can get less expensive stuff to use on a daily basis and/or not worry about inaccuracy, dropping it, or stepping on your daily user. Even make your own straight edges and squares, and verify them. They're pretty cheap, and can save a lot of hemming and hawing, and potentially money.
Worth mentioning: a good drill and screwdriver are irreplaceable. If you don't have them already, get one of each. I'd recommend them over half of the tools mentioned above. Wera makes the best ratcheting combo screwdriver I've ever used.
Lastly, DO NOT FORGET ABOUT CLAMPS, lol. You can never have too many, and they cost money. Pipe clamps will probably be the cheapest and most effective way to start out; look for them used for $10 or so per clamp WITH pipe.
Best of luck, and apologies again for the dissertation.
Rich
If needed, substitute Axminster for Lee Valley, on your side of the pond, I think. Also, I understand about the used plane fear, and think you have a solid choice lined up.
Thanks! I'll check out lee valley.I have replied to your other comment too but I'm not sure it's linked it properly and posted it as a normal comment...
Hi, Daniel. I am guilty of accumulating a wide assortment of planes. I started with a couple of old (circa late 1940s) Stanley planes (#3 and #4) that I inherited from my father. While long neglected, they are cleaned up and restored now. He used them more for carpentry-grade projects arount the house. I also inherited a spokeshave and a block plane by Stanley, which are inferior to the bench planes. Newer Stanley planes are not very good.
To build my workbench, I needed more, so I added a low-angle bevel-up jack plane (#6 1/2 ?) and a jointer plane, both Veritas. I can swap blades between them if the wood grain demands a different bevel. Veritas has an annual seconds sales, where you can save a little money on quality tools, but you have to be dedicated and prepared to snatch what you want quickly, if they have a seconds quality available (cosmetic, but fully functional).
With those in hand, I converted the Stanley #3 to a scrub plane for fast material removal.
You will likely want a block plane, for endgrain trimming and other fine adjustments. I got a better one that I love. I also added: two curved spokeshaves - one concave and one curved sole, a medium shoulder plane, a router plane and a combination plane.
I think you will want three to start - #3 or #4 for smoothing, something else for more serious surfacing, and a block plane. You will know when your work gets to a point where you "need" to add more planes. Everybody has their favorite brands, and I mostly settled on Veritas. Not cheap, but satisfying. Others will say Lie-Nielsen is the best, and there are many more. If you want to scour flea markets for vintage tools, do your research and be prepared to spend a lot of effort on cleaning, truing, flatteng and sharpening. Just don't go for cheap without research - a few higher quality tools will sustain your love of woodworking but a larger set of crappy tools will sour your outlook.
I won't even get into chisels - I have some but I find the choices daunting. Maybe try one size of a maker and style that you think you'll like, and if it's good, expand to other sizes. If not, try again with a different style and/or maker. It also depends a lot on what you're using them for.
Good luck!
That was a fun read even for a non-wood worker... you made it light and interesting!
Mission accomplished! Thank you.
Hi Russel! Thanks for the lengthy comment 😊
I feel like planes are a love hate relationship right now. I want several. I can afford 1 maybe 2 right now.
I'm forced to start small so I will likely get a no 5 to get me going. Will have a lot of shavings to make building my workbench...
I'll probably follow that with a smoother and a block plane. I'd love to have a jointercin future too.
I'm very averse to restored planes. It's too much risk for me. I'd much rather buy new and learn how to set it up. I feel that older planes are for those with experience.
If I knew a woodworker who could help and perhaps do the restoration perhaps it would be different!
I'm going to buy Verum planes from the woodworkers workshop. They are curated by Peter Sefton so I'm hoping they are good quality mid range planes. The reviews suggest as much!