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Russell Barber's avatar

On angled cuts, unless it is really close to a rip, i.e., nearly parallel to the grain, I use a crosscut saw. Assuming it is sharp, tearout should be minimized.

This is where aesthetics are so subjective - I think the door looks good the way it is, as I like seeing the structural diagonal braces and the t&g paneling. And solid wood is so much prettier than osb. But if you are sheathing the door you will get a little insulation value, if that matters (and you could fill the cavity with insulation if it really matters).

My one car garage was a total rebuild (by a good contractor, not me) to replace a decrepit low garage with a flat roof that was rotting and leaked like a sieve, and the concrete floor had split down the middle. So, all new from a new slab to the high peaked roof. Friends and neighbors say I did this so I could have the beautiful carriage style doors made from old growth vertical grain fir. Maybe partially true ;) I much prefer a door that I can open quickly and silently, and without sacrificing indoor clearance, as compared to typical overhead garage doors. You would not believe how much I fit into a 9.5'x18' space with a high roof! The other advantage of the rebuild was the easy addition of electrical circuits - 2x240v and 2x120v.

My sympathy for the broken tooth. But without metal underneath to break the tooth, if you don't figure out how to avoid the mishap, next time the saw could be fine but end up damaging a nice bench or something else underneath the cut.

Lessons learned the hard way sometimes stick the best. Happy cutting!

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Neasy's avatar

I sometimes wrap painters masking tape upto the cutline, then saw, it stops the wood splitting. If that makes sense.

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